Sue in Suffolk is on a cheese mission, to taste those 'Artisan' cheeses beloved of farm markets. So I decided to get down one of my favourite books - Dorothy Hartley's Food In England, written in the 1950s.
Hartley wrote a book of such depth on how food was prepared that perhaps we should return to it. Yesterday there was a meeting to talk about the shortages of certain food in Britain and of course how to handle the shortage because of Brexit (I will not go down that path), we seem to produce about 60% of our food, the rest imported.
And I see another book recommended is Henry Dimbleby's book 'Ravenous' on the horrors of all our over manufactured food which is slowly poisoning us apparently, with the chemical use of additives, etc.
Hartley talks in that romantic voice of a past era when where you pastured your cows would flavour the different cheese. A geographical flavour. It reminds me in 'Tess of the D'Urbervilles' when the cows must have eaten the garlic flower and tarnished their milk. the plant shows at this time of the year, though garlic butter would have been quite delicious.
Transport of course killed off all the small cheesemakers, home made cheese slowly became a thing of the past, as the farmers poured their milk into churns and left it at the bottom of the farm for it to go off to the larger cheese centres. Also given the event of the Milk Marketing Board (does that still exist) local cheese became a rarity.
It is interesting to read that cheese making relied on the seasonal time of the year, here I quote "moorland cheese was only made in spring, hay-fed cattle went out and grazed the scented alder and new grass on the mountains. 'Hay cheese' was never the same as 'Dale' or 'moorland' cheese.
Hartley goes on to say that factory made cheese became rubbery, the cream content lower, the summer cheese was the only decent cheese.
Of course, and don't tell my granddaughter this, is the whole flavouring of cheese not only came from the bacillus but in the olden days from the spores floating around which was also deeply ingrained in the wood and part of the individual farmhouse offerings.
Stilton cheese was first made in 1600, and found originally at a manor house in Quenby, Leicestershire and it was known as Quenby cheese, though before it had been known as Lady Beaumont cheese, made by Elizabeth Scarbrow. Her two daughters grew up, got married and took the recipe with them, one in marriage to the Landlord of the Bell Inn at Stilton, where it later took its name we know it as now. Somerset cheese was the best, those rich meadows produced good milk. Apparently you can make potato cheese .
5lbs of potatoes boiled and pulped, 1lb of solid sour milk. Knead together and press into small square rush baskets. It apparently produces a soft white cheese but does depend on what 'the old cheese kit' is infected with!
I went to the Mighty Tod organic shop today, and they have great selection of vegan cheeses, none of which I have tried yet, but guess it must be flavoured from the nutritional yeast I sprinkle over my soup.
A year or two ago I read "A Cheesemonger's History of The British Isles" by Ned Palmer, in which he describes the history of cheese-making from prehistoric times through to the present. The only problem I have with the book is that I found myself eating far to much cheese as an accompaniment my reading!
ReplyDeleteShould have been "too much", of course.
DeleteAs a family we eat far too much cheese John, but I think it is because we are mostly vegetarian and need the protein. Sounds an interesting book as well, the actual act of understanding how bacteria works must have been a breakthrough.
DeleteI think one of the nicest cheese I've eaten was Single Gloucester - so creamy. From a Hampshire cheeseboard in a favourite pub, Dunlop. Never seen it since.
ReplyDeleteCheeses come and go, I quite like French goat's cheese and a decent camembert.
DeleteThe only cheese I tried making was Crowdie, which is very basic!
ReplyDeleteIs it the one you strain through a muslin bag, cottage cheese wise and has to be made of unpasteurised milk, I remember how the authorities that be came down with dire warnings that such milk was dangerous.
ReplyDeleteDorset Blue Vinney is made on only one farm in Dorset, near Sherborne and is sweeter than Stilton and a real treat if you can get hold of it, highly recommended. Sandra.
ReplyDeleteI am not sure it would make it up to our part of the world Sandra, but I will look out for it. Crumbly stilton is delicious.
DeleteInteresting Thelma. In the days before we had a fridge my mother used to put any milk which went sour and 'curdy' into a muslin bage and hang it on the clothes line to drip. Then she would bring in the curd and tip it into a basin , adding pepper and salt, sometimes parsley, sometimes chopped spring onions. We would have it for tea with her freshly baked bread. Your post brought back a lovely memory.
ReplyDeleteIt is good to remember such things Pat. Thank you for the memory.
DeleteMy mother used to make cheese in a muslin bag too. I seem to remember I didn’t like it but was fascinated by the process as a small child.
ReplyDelete